PREFACE A TOUR TO THE OREGON TERRITORY

by Joseph Williams

PREFACE

At the earnest request of my friends, I have consented to publish an account of my journey, from my residence in the state of Indiana, to the Oregon Territory. The information contained in my Narrative may be of great interest to those who may contemplate emigrating to that region, or such as may wish to explore the vast west to the Pacific Ocean.

I have given my own views of the country beyond the Rocky Mountains; and, although they may not agree in every particular with the opinions set forth by other travelers, yet I have tried to follow the best convictions of my own mind, produced by personal observation, and the best information I could obtain from the inhabitants on the ground. As to the correctness of my opinions, I leave that for others to judge. It will be easily perceived that I am not practiced in the art of bookmaking; but as I have stated facts, in my own plain way, without any attempt to embellish my style, I hope the reader will be satisfied. It is probable that errors will be discovered in the orthography of proper names; having no standard authorities at hand; by which to correct my spelling of the. In most cases, I have given those names according to the usual pronunciation of them by the inhabitants of that region.

I am a native of Cumberland County, Pennsylvania; was raised in Virginia; am now in my sixty-sixth year; and that I should be conducted in safety, and be sustained through all the dangers and fatigues of so long a journey, at my advanced age, is matter of unfeigned gratitude to that God who “preserveth man and beast,”

Joseph Williams

 

A TOUR to OREGON TERRITORY

April 26th , 1841.

This morning I started from my residence, near Napoleon, Ripley County, Indiana, for the Oregon Territory, on the Columbia River, west of the Rocky Mountains; though many of my friends tried to dissuade me from going, telling me of the many dangers and difficulties I should have to go through, exposed to hostile Indians and the wild beasts, and also on account of my advanced age, being at this time in my 64th year. But my mind leads me strongly to go; I want to preach to the people there, and also to the Indians, as well as to see the country. I try to put my trust in the God of heaven, who rules the earth, and seas, and mountains, and the savage tribes, and all the wild beasts of the forest, and the storms, and all the poisonous vapors of the earth and air; who preserves all who put their trust in him. My soul seems wholly resigned to his will in all things, whether to live or die, to prosper or suffer. All is right that the Lord doeth; why then should we fear? So I bade my children and friends farewell, not knowing that I should ever see them again in this world. Lord keep us near thee!

That night I reached the neighborhood of St. Omer, on Flat Rock Creek. The next night I stayed at brother Rector’s, and the next day. Soon after I started, the rain began to fall in torrents– the coldness of the wind and rain rendered me very uncomfortable. This day I passed through Indianapolis, and that night stayed at Bridgeport, Next morning I started very early, the cold west wind blowing in my face, and at night reached brother Messer’s, in Putnam County. Next day I attended to some temporal business, and rested my horse. On Sunday, went to hear brother Belotte preach, at the brick meeting-house; and in the afternoon, tried to preach myself, from Ephesians v, 14: ” Awake, thou that sleepest.” Stayed that night at brother Clearwater’s, and enjoyed myself very well. Next day traveled twenty-eight miles, and stayed at brother Daniel Dickenson’s, a Methodist preacher. That same day, had a short controversy with a Campbellite preacher on baptism. The next day, I passed through Terrehaute, stayed at a class-leader’s, having traveled thirty-three miles that day. Next day, passed several small towns, Preached at Woodbury that night, on the waters of Embarrass River, in Illinois. Stayed with Mr. Needham, where I slept comfortable, and rose happy in the morning. This dear people want religion; 0 that the Lord would breathe on them his Spirit’s influence, and make them Christians! Next day rode thirty-three miles, and stayed at Mr. Buy’s. He seems much of a gentleman, and his wife a kind-hearted Methodist. Next morning, I started out in the rain, and rode to Jacob Tinker’s, where I dined and fed my horse, and felt very comfortable. Started on, and passed through Vandalia, and met a very solemn procession, going to bury one of their respectable citizens, That night stayed at brother Wollard’s, and enjoyed myself very well. He is a Methodist traveling preacher, Next day rode to brother Miles’, and the following day went to hear brother Wollard preach, and exhorted after him. We had a very good class meeting. There was some difficulty in the Church to settle, which was soon done. That night I tried to preach at brother Gorman’s, and met some old acquaintances from Indiana. Next day crossed the Mississippi River at St. Louis, in company with brother Joseph Oglesby.

Here I learned that the company which I expected to join was broken up. I then went on to try to overtake the company that had previously started from Independence, in Missouri; rode twenty-three miles, and that night stayed at Alexander Ove’s, near Baldwin. After I laid down, and before I got to sleep, I was- called up to go and pray for a woman that was dying; but when I got there, her husband was not willing that I should pray with her. I then returned reached Union, where I stayed with Dr. Chids; preached that night from Ephesians iv, 5: “one Lord, one faith, one baptism.” I had some liberty in preaching, and the people paid good attention, and behaved well. Next day I traveled over hish, poor, barren and stony hills, and stayed at Mr. M’Afee’s; endeavored to get a preaching place, but the people seemed indifferent about it, so I gave it up. These looked like poor, distressed people. Next morning crossed Gasconade River, and afterwards the Osage River, Here I was mortified to find that I had expended all my money, and had to sell a pair of saddle-bags for two dollars. Stayed that night with Esquire Price. Still traveling over poor hills, I passed next day through Jefferson City. Here I once more saw the Missouri River, preached that night at brother Michael Barger’s, to a small congregation, mostly Baptists. They invited me to come back, which I promised to do. Next day had a tedious travel over the wide and rich prairies, and in the evening passed through Georgetown, and missed my way; but reached to house of a fine old man and woman, who were not religious, but treated me very kindly, and charged me to call on them as I returned. Next day traveled through the rich prairies, and reached Warrensburg, in Johnson County. I went to brother Brown’s, and asked him if he would let a Methodist preacher preach there that night. He told me there was an appointment made there already for the circuit preacher, who asked me to preach in his place. I did so; we had a comfortable and sociable time. Next day I rode to brother M’Kin’s, a Methodist preacher, where I received information that the company at Independence, which was going to the Mountains, had already started ten days be fore. I then went on to Independence the next day, and preached there that night, from Ephesians iv, 5: “One Lord, one faith, one baptism,” which caused some of the people to stare at me, Here brother Ford and brother Pertee earnestly remonstrated against my proceeding any farther, telling me that I never would be able to encounter the difficulties.

I rode over, the next morning, to Westport, and finding the company were all gone, and no possibility of overtaking them, with much pain of mind I gave up going any farther, and knew not what to do. I then rode across to the Shawnee mission, three miles from Westport, across the Missouri line, and there I met brother Greene, presiding elder, who told me the company, about four days previous, was eighty miles ahead of me, on the Caw River, I said within myself, surely the Lord is opening my way to go on. I began to get ready to go on, but could not get half prepared. Bought some powder and lead, and some provision and a gun, but was disappointed in getting my gun. My feelings were much harrowed up with the brethren trying to discourage me, and keep me from going to the Mountains. One of the preachers told me it was almost presumptuous for so old a man as I to attempt such a hazardous journey, and added, that he had awful feelings for me through the last night; and he said, so had some of the rest. Mr. Greene said there was a possibility of my returning, but not a probability.

I started out on Saturday, with brother Johnson, a missionary, and two Indian chiefs of the Caw tribe. We reached, that night, Wakloosa Creek, and camped under the trees. Brother Johnson cooked supper, and we had cakes and coffee. We laid down to sleep; the thunder and lightning cold be heard and seen, and the wind began to blow. I was somewhat alarmed, for fear of the trees falling on us. The rain soon began, and the wind ceased. Then I soon fell asleep, and rested well and comfortable. I arose next morning happy; bless the Lord, O my soul; praise him who takes care of us in the desert!

This day we traveled through extensive rolling prairies, with some few skirts of timber. We rode forty-five miles that day, and reached brother Johnson’s mission. Brother and sister Johnson furnished me with provision, and everything that I needed, and offered to do anything that they could for me. (Brother Johnson has died since, and I doubt not, has gone to heaven to reap his reward). I shall never forget their kindness to me. Next morning I started, in company with Mr. Brensill. When we came to the Caw River, the Indians said we could cross it, We entered in, and the water ran over our horses backs, and I got my provisions wet. We inquired of the Indians, and they told us the company was ahead about four days’ journey, and they gave me directions how to find their trail. I rode about seven miles. I was then alone, about 9 o’clock; and being about to pass through the territory occupied by the Pawnee tribe, I thought of what they told me about being robbed or killed, and put whip to my horse. Passing through a small thicket of woods, I saw a pishamore (Ed. Note: an apishamore *) lying near the trail, and lit down to get it, when I saw that there was an Indian’s peck (Ed. Note: Pack) , that I concluded was laid there to decoy me. I then sprang upon my horse, gave him the whip, and rode till dark. This day traveled about forty miles, and came to a willow thicket; tied my horse with a long rope, laid down, and slept till next morning, nothing breaking the silence of the night but a few bull-frogs. I arose and returned to the road, and saw some fresh horse tracks that had been made during the night, I supposed by the Indians, who had been following me. The Caws (or Kauzas) told me that the Pawnees were a bad nation, and that they had a battle with them; that they had their women and children hid in a thicket, whom they (the Pawnees) slaughtered in a barbarous manner. I can hardly describe my feelings as I was traveling alone, up the Caw (or Kauzas) River, Pursuing my journey that day, I tried to give myself up to the Lord. I could scarcely follow the wagon tracks, the ground was so hard in the prairie. I had almost concluded, at last, to turn back, and got down on my knees, and asked the Lord whether I should do so or not. These words came to my mind: “The Lord shall be with thee, and no hand shall harm thee.” I then renewed my resolution to go on in the name of the Lord, believing that all would be well, and that I should, in the end, return safely home, I went on cheerfully for some time; but was occasionally perplexed with doubts. About an hour before sunset, I got down off my horse, and prayed again. God renewed the promise, and I got up and started on, renewed in promise, and with renewed courage, thinking all would be well; and instead of sleeping in the prairie, I got to an encampment where there was fire, and plenty of wood, and good water, and I praised God with all my heart. I roasted my meat, sweetened some water, and, with my biscuits, made a hearty supper; laid down by my fire, and slept well and comfortably till morning. A little dog that the company had left, kept around the camp, barking and howling.

Next morning, I arose quite happy in my soul, and said, “My God hath preserved me hitherto, and now God has answered my prayer.” I then ate my breakfast and started, happy in my soul. I crossed the Vermillion Creek, and arose on the rolling prairie. I shouted some hours over these beautiful plains. No fear nor trouble came near me, for God had given me so glorious promises, that I could not doubt or fear for a moment. Not an Indian appeared that day. About 4 o’clock in the afternoon, I saw the company about four miles ahead, but soon lost sight of them again; and coming to the place where the company had stopped to eat dinner, I alighted, and let my horse feed awhile. At this place, as the company afterwards told me, about two hundred Indians had been seen only an hour before. They had sometimes hung on the rear of the company, and had made some how of attacking those who lingered behind the main body. Awhile before, they had robbed four men of all they had, stripped them naked, and left them in the open prairies to perish before they could get to the white settlements. The company said it was ninety-nine chances to one that I escaped the hands of the Indians, for they had been seen all along where I had come. Surely a wise God controlled the heathens, and protected me; for as I came along the day before, I found a piece of a buffalo robe in the trail, which I thought some of the company had dropped, but after I had put it on my saddle, I saw on the other side of the road a skin bag, full of something, which I then knew was an Indian bag. I then rode on as fast as I could till evening, when I took up my lodging, 0 how good the Lord is; let all the world, with me, praise him. Praise him, 0 my soul; for I trusted in him, and he has preserved me. How good it is to converse with the Lord, The company seemed glad that I had made my escape. The company consisted of about fifty. The greater part were bound for California; a few only for Oregon. There were about twenty wagons belonging to the expedition, drawn by oxen. One of the company was a Catholic priest, a Mr. de Smidt, who was extremely kind to me, and invited me to come and eat supper with him that night, and next morning brought me some venison. He appeared to be a very fine man. I was invited to sing by a woman, and then to pray. I did so.

* apishamore: buffalo hide saddle blanket

May 27th.

We marched on through the plains.  28th, Saw two antelopes, the first I ever saw of those animals. We traveled three hundred miles up the Caw River from Westport, on the west line of the Missouri, all the way through prairies, which seem almost to have no end. On Sunday, the 30th, I had a thought of trying to preach to the company. There were some as wicked people among them as I ever saw in all my life. There was some reluctance shown by the captain of the company; others wanted me to preach to them, Part of this Sabbath day was a happy time to me. My soul was drawn out to God, for he was with me, though in the midst of an ignorant and hard-hearted people. The men killed several antelopes, and saw some elks.

On Monday, the 31st, we left the Blue (or Blue Earth) River, a fork of the Caw River, and traveled over to the Platte River. We passed the Pawnee towns the next day, about six miles to the north of us. We then turned more to the southwest, and camped on Platte River that night. We had two Methodists in company with us. Col. Bartleson had been a Methodist, but is now a backslider. Our leader, Fitzpatrick, a worldly man, is much opposed to missionaries going among the Indians. He has some intelligence, but is deistical in his principles. At 2 o’clock, commenced a most tremendous hail storm, with wind, which blew down most of the tents, accompanied with rain and lightning and thunder almost all night. I slept but little, the ground being covered with water. That night, dreadful oaths were heard all over the camp ground, O the wickedness of the wicked.

On this night I was called upon to marry a couple of young people belonging to our company, without law or license, for we were a long way from the United States. Perhaps this was the first marriage in all these plains among white people.

Next morning we continued up the Platte River. This river is said to be about sixteen hundred miles long, and is here about one-fourth of a mile wide, and very muddy. The Indians call it Elk River. It empties into the Missouri, a few miles below Council Bluff. The Caw River is said to be about seven hundred miles long. It empties into the Missouri River, at the west line of the state of Missouri.

On Thursday, we traveled through the most level plains I ever saw in my life. Here is such a scenery of beauty as is seldom witnessed. The Platte plains are lower than the banks. There are bluffs all along here, for four or five miles. The next day there came on a tremendous storm of rain, wind and thunder, which lasted about an hour and a half. We traveled up the river, and encamped all night where wood was very scarce,-and hard to be got, and we made our fires of some willow bushes.

On Friday evening the company had a terrible alarm. One of our hunters, who was in the rear, was robbed of all he had by the Indians. They struck him with their ram-rods, and he ran from them. Soon a war party of the Sioux Indians appeared in view. We soon collected together in order of battle, to be ready in case of an attack. The Indians stood awhile and looked at us, and probably thinking that “the better part of valor is discretion,” they soon showed signs of peace, Captain Fitzpatrick then went to them, and talked with them, for he was acquainted with them. They then gave back all that they had taken from the young man, and our men gave them some tobacco, and they smoked the pipe of peace. 

The next morning we continued up this river, along smooth banks, without any timber. That afternoon we had a very severe hail storm, accompanied with thunder; one Indian was knocked down with a hail stone, about as large as a goose egg, We soon discovered a water spout, which came down into the river. When it struck the river it made a great foam, and then passed off in a dreadful tornado. The next day we saw six flat-bottomed boats coming down, loaded with buffalo robes and skins. The poor fellows in the boats looked very dirty and ragged. We now began to see plenty of buffalo signs; all the way previous, game had been very scarce.

Here we had not very good water to drink, having to use the muddy water of the Platte River. On Sunday, we stayed where we had tolerably good water. Companies of Indians still came into our camp to trade with us.

The bluffs here are getting larger and higher and wider from the river. These plains are covered all over with buffalo bones and skulls. I long to get out of these plains to where we can get plenty of good water and wood. I am still weary of hearing so much swearing by the wicked white men. On Monday night, we had another hard storm of rain, hail, and thunder. These beautiful bluffs look, in some places, like magnificent buildings.

June 1st.

This week we had storms all the time.

Sunday, the 7th.

Our hunters killed an elk, for the first time. On Wednesday, they killed three buffaloes. The Indians still continued to travel with us. This night we were threatened with another thunder storm, but it passed off without much rain. Our hunters killed some more buffaloes, and we then had plenty of meat. It is thought that the Platte plains here are several feet below the surface of the water, The small cedars grow on the top of the bluffs. The bluffs get larger and higher as we ascend the river. Monday morning we began to make ready to cross the south fork of Platte River. This fork is about one-fourth of a mile wide, with a sandy bottom; some places the wagons nearly swam. We got across with some difficulty, but not much danger. There were seven or eight buffaloes seen coming up with our oxen; our ‘hunters shot one of them. Some more were seen with the other oxen. They seemed to form an attachment to each other. Thursday we traveled up the north side of the south fork, Here we saw thousands of buffalo, all along the plains. Out hunters shot down one bull; they thought it unnecessary to kill anymore. Here we saw packs of wolves, which followed them. This morning there was a great alarm given that the Indians had driven off some of the oxen, and our men went in pursuit of them, and brought them back. One man said he saw an Indian, and shot at him; but some did not believe him. All this time, I had to stand guard every fourth night. The Indians still come to trade with us. Here we have nothing to make our fires but buffalo manure. This morning a large buffalo bull came near us, when we were marching along, and seemed regardless of the bullets; but after about fifteen or twenty were shot into him, he fell. We started across to the north fork, about two miles to the northwest, and then traveled Saturday night. Here an awful circumstance took place: A young man by the name of Shotwell, shot himself accidentally, and died in about two hours afterwards. I was called upon, by his comrades, to preach his funeral, which I did. The death of this young man caused some seriousness in his comrades for a few days. On Sunday evening, we went up the river about eight miles, to the mouth of Ash Creek, and stayed there one day and two nights. We then traveled up through the bluffs and bald hills, the weather still cold and windy. Nothing grows here but some willow bushes on the banks. The plains are poor and broken. Many curious shapes and forms may be seen among the bluffs. Some abrupt elevations look like houses, with steeples to them. One we saw sixteen or eighteen miles ahead of us, which resembled a house with the chimney in the middle of it; or like a funnel, with a small end uppermost, and covering about two acres of ground. The chimney part is about one hundred feet high, about thirty feet square. We passed an old fort below the mouth of the Larrimee River; and crossing that river, we went up to a new fort that they were building, called Fort Johns. Here is a mixture of people; some white, some half breeds, some French. Here is plenty of talk about their damnation, but none about their salvation; and I thought of the words of David, “Woe is me that I sojourn in Mesech, that I dwell in the tents of Kedar.” Here we came in sight of the Black Hills. We now have buffalo meat in abundance, which they cut up in slices, and dry in the sun. I never experienced colder weather for the time of year, now late in June. The people here appear healthier than at any other place in the country. The white men have Indian women for their wives. There are two Forts here, about one mile apart, and another about one hundred and fifty miles south. I tried to preach twice to these people, but with little effect. Some of them said they had not heard preaching for twelve years.

Leaving the Fort, we soon entered the Black Hills. Traveling up the Larrimee River, we had plenty of good wood and water, and felt ourselves much refreshed, thanks to God. I am now getting well used to eating buffalo meat,

July 1ST.

We crossed the north fork with considerable difficulty, and in the passage had a mule drowned. Buffaloes and bears are very plenty, and our hunters shot them down all around, so that we had good fat meat in abundance. All this country is still very poor, and the timber small — cotton wood and willow. Few Indians to be seen some mixed breeds are with Mr. de Smidt, going on to the Columbia River to the Catholic mission. Here grows a great many wild shrubs, with wild sage and greasewood, resembling young pine, with which the bald hills are covered. It is seldom eaten by any kind of animal. Here we have the Black Hills upon our left. The third day of the month, we left the Platte and went to the Sweet River, a branch of the Platte, which heads up in the mountains, We are now supposed to be in north latitude 41 degrees. The streams of water are very good. I notice here large quantities of something like glauber salts. It looks like white frost. This country is thought to be extremely healthy.

July 4th.

We came in sight of the Big Horn (or Win River) Mountain. The next day we passed the Red Bluffs, and at night reached the Independence Rock, on Sweet River, at which the company celebrated the 4th of July, 1838. Next night, (Sunday) I proposed having prayers; several of the wicked class came up. Near this, we passed a place where the whole river runs through a narrow channel, or sluice in the rocks. This night we have the sound of the violin, but not much dancing. “Woe unto the wicked; for they shall have their reward,” Our company is mostly composed of Universalists and deists.

Here is an almost solid rock, like a mountain, on the right side of Sweet River. Buffaloes and antelope are very plentiful in this region. Driving through dry, rough plains, we try to get to the creeks to obtain grazing for our animals. We are now in the neighborhood of the Crow nation of Indians, who are peaceable. We have this morning again come in sight of the Win River Mountain. Its summit is still spotted with snow.

July 10th.

At night we were very cold. I could not keep warm, although I had a buffalo robe to cover me. It is said here, that the ground is sometimes frozen in August an inch deep. Today we traveled over some high, bald hills; dined on good fat buffalo, that our hunters had just killed. We went over on Sweet River, and dried our meat for the remaining part of our journey, where we expected not to find any more game. We are still in sight of the big Win Mountain, for it may be seen at the distance of seventy or eighty miles. For hundreds of miles we have to pass over barren ground. I went out with the hunters to bring in meat to dry, and we soon killed a buffalo, which Mr. Jones and myself loaded our animals with, and started back to camp, I acting as pilot. We struck too high on the creek, and such places for rocks and hills and cliffs I never traveled over before. We arrived home just at dark. The next day we came in sight of the Sweet River Mountains, Its peaks were tolerably well whitened with snow. There are some white bears in these mountains, but we have not killed any yet. There are also some white wolves, about as white as sheep. They are a dull, sleepy looking animal, and very surly; not very mindful of anything, nor much afraid. They are about the size of a common wolf. 

 July 16th.

We are engaged in drying our meat for crossing the mountains. This morning we had a very great frost, and some ice. We are still in sight of the Sweet River Mountain. Today, we lay by for the arrival of the Snake Indians to come and trade for our articles, and a man was sent to tell them to come. Today, Col. Bartleson gave some of our deists a down-setting, which pleased me very well. We moved about three miles up the river, to get better grazing for our animals. This river is very beautiful with clear, running water, fine springs all along, no timber, soil poor and barren.

Sunday. July 18th.

We lodged on Little Sandy Creek, a beautiful stream.

July 19th.

We stayed on Big Sandy Creek. These two creeks run into Green River, a branch of the Colorado River.

We have now just crossed the ridge between the Green River and the Missouri. All these mountains that we have been traveling through, are spurs of the Rocky Mountains, whose peaks are covered with snow, yet the plains are very hot and sultry. Today, we saw some white grizzly bears, and killed some mountain sheep, the horns of which are as thick as a man’s leg, and about two feet long; but they have no wool upon them, and are not much larger than our common sheep.

Friday, July 23rd.

We lay on Green River bottom, where we fell in with Mr. Frap, who was on a hunting expedition. (This man, with nine or ten of his company, were afterwards killed in a skirmish with the Sioux Indians.) His company was mostly composed of half breeds, French, and Dutch and all sorts of people collected together in the mountains, and was a wicked, swearing company of men. Here sugar sold for $1.50 per pound; powder and lead from $1,50 to $2.50 per pound. While here, a wedding took place in our company, between Mr. Richard Fillan and a Mrs. Gray, who had left her husband in Missouri. They were married by Mr. de Smidt, the Catholic priest. Six of our company left us and returned to the United States. Leaving Mr. Frap’s company, we continued our journey down Green River. On the Sabbath we have nothing but swearing and fishing. Here I gave myself up to God determined to serve him better than ever.

July 27th.

We encamped on Black’s Fork. We are now among the Snake nation and Flat Head Indians. These latter are like other Indians, but their heads have been clamped up in a box while infants. We traveled about ten miles a day, much impeded by the thickets of sage and greasewood. Here we find the little prairie dogs. They are about the size of the fox squirrel, and of a brownish color. They are in shape like little dogs with short tails. Here we also find other small animals, about the size of the ground squirrel. They all live, as it were, in towns, burrowed in the ground. These little animals appear to visit one another. Their homes are covered up; and when they see travelers, they run to their holes. The sage hen is found here also. They are somewhat less than the turkey hen, and are supposed to live on the sage leaves, They are not very good to eat.

July 28th.

We stayed on Ham’s Fork of Green River. One of our wagons broke down today.

July 30th.

We traveled across the barren hills towards Bear River. This was a hot, sultry day; yet we could see snow on the Eutaw Mountains, on the head waters of the Colorado River. Next night we lay on Black’s Fork

August 1st.

At night I tried to preach to the deists and swearers. Some of them seemed angry, but I thought I cleared my conscience. Next day we traveled through hills and bad roads till we came to Bear River, which runs into Big Salt Lake. Here we rested, and waited for the Snake Indians to come and trade with us. The Bear River bottoms are beautiful to look at but not rich, and have no timber. On each side of the river are high, naked bluffs, in some places like small mountains; and in the valleys, large springs of beautiful cold water abound. Farther on we found tolerably good land, and beautiful small creeks, having good mill sites. Some few pines are growing along these bluffs. This day I felt weak from living on dry buffalo meat, without bread.

Sunday, August 8th.

We rested. The employment is still fishing and hunting; and such swearing I never heard in my life before. God will surely punish these swearers. Still we find large beautiful streams coming down from the mountains, who sides are covered with pine trees. Fish are plentiful in all these streams. A fine settlement might be formed along this river.

We next came to the Soda Springs. These springs seem to boil like a pot of water; but there is no heat in them, except one, that is just on the bank of the river, which is built in the form of a crawfish hole, about three feet high, formed of sediment thrown up by the water, which spouts about three feet high every quarter of a minute. There is an air hole near it that makes a noise like a steamboat, but not as loud. This water is something similar to the artificial soda water. Some of these springs are situated in the bottom of the river, and on occasion an ebullition of the surface. This water is somewhat purgative, and is thought by some to possess medical qualities, which may hereafter make it a place of great resort by invalids and other. This place looks as if it might once have been a great volcano. There is something like lava that has been thrown out of a hole, and lies some inches thick on the ground. Around it is a fine country of rich land, good fresh water, healthy and a very mild climate. Some of the sediment is of a red color, and the stones have the appearance of pumice.

Here our hunters killed a pelican, as white as snow, and its legs and feet like those of a goose. Its bill is about eighteen inches long, and it has a pouch under its jaw that will hold about three pints. The pelican is about six feet long, its tail short, the flesh coarse and not very good to eat. This day we parted with some of our company, They went down the Bear River in order to go to California. There was some division and strife among us about going; some who set out for California changed their minds to go to the Columbia. Those who went to California, (as I afterwards learned,) were much perplexed about getting through, as they had no regular guide; and were forced to kill some of their animals, to save themselves from perishing with hunger. They passed the Big Salt Lake. At this lake, an abundance of salt is made by evaporation in the sun.

We turned off from the Bear River and struck over on to the waters of Snake River, Next morning we started down one of its branches, but found that we could not get along with the wagons. We therefore turned back again, and stayed near where we encamped the night before. The next day we continued on up, and fell over on Snake River, at Fort Hall. Here the Flat Heads met the Catholic priest, who, with his little company, left us, and turned to the right to go to the Flat Head tribes, where he had a mission. I felt sorry when we parted with him. After we had got some provisions, and the men had exchanged their wagons for pack-horses, we pursued our journey. Our company is now going with Mr.Armington, who is our captain. We passed the Ponock Indians. They seemed to show some dislike to us. Our captain said, if they were not for peace, they would not come openly to us. Here news came to us that about two hundred Sioux had attacked Frap’s company, mentioned in a former part of my narrative. We now started on down the Snake River. We have now beautiful plains to travel through. At Fort Hall, we had to give one dollar a pint for flour. Fort Hall is a beautiful place, in a handsome part of the country.

August 21st.

We traveled down the Snake River. Here are half breeds, Indians, French and Wyhees all together. We stayed at the American Falls on Snake River, where we took breakfast. These falls afford beautiful scenery and are heard for a great distance. We traveled over some tremendous bad roads; and on the 21st we passed the Solmon Falls on Lewis River. A large company of the root diggers live here in little lodges made of willow bushes and grass. Here they catch thousands of salmon. These, with the roots they dig, constitute their food. ‘Their little lodges were lined with fish, of which we bought plenty to do us. We now fared well on fish, and I have recruited my strength of body. Our captain , Armington, is one of the most liberal, free-hearted men in this country. He has shown us a great deal of kindness, though far from being a religious man.

August 28th.

We crossed the river, which was deep and dangerous, and continued down it. The Snake Indians are now with us, and want to sell us fish, and trade horses, We have tremendous rough roads, and it is very dangerous traveling up and down the rocky hills. We passed two hot springs, where we saw some iron ore.

September 1st,

We reached Fort Bois. Some timber grows along the Bois, principally cottonwood. There are some flour and Indian meal to be sold here; seven pounds of flour for a dollar – mountain price! Here we rested two days. Our captain is a very profane man, which seems to give fresh spring to our swearers. The first night we stayed at Fort Bois, I lay on the bank of the river, where I could scarcely sleep for the Indians, who sung all night in a very curious manner. This is their practice when they are gambling. The poor things were almost naked. The salmon also kept a great noise, jumping and splashing about in the water. We now started for Wallawalla, over hills and rough roads. We don’t see any timber, scarcely, except a few pines. We passed some more hot springs today, and traveled some very dangerous roads.

September 8th.

We came to Gunpowder River, a small stream. The next day we stayed on a pleasant plain, where beautiful springs come down from the spurs of the Blue Mountains. We stayed on the Grand Round, a beautiful plain, about twenty miles long and ten miles broad. It is well calculated for farming, and well watered. Here we pass some beautiful pines, spruce and fir trees. After crossing the mountain, we stayed at the foot of it, on the margin of a small creek. We had some frost this morning. Next day we traveled over the hills, and got into the rich prairies; camped on the Umatilla River, where we saw a variety of fruits, black haws and brown cherries; and trees like the balm of Gilead, with pods and gum on them. The Indians brought some good, sweet roots to sell to us. We traveled on and got to Dr. Whiteman’s and Mr. Gray’s, on the Wallawalla, where the Presbyterian mission is located. These were kind, friendly people. We heard the Doctor hold a meeting on Sunday in a well-behaved congregation of Indians. I tried to preach to them myself that day. Here we had all kinds of green vegetables which they gave to us very freely.

On Wednesday following we left the mission, and traveled on down the Wallawalla about twenty five miles, and reached the Fort at the mouth thereof, on the Columbia River. We continued down the Columbia River on a very dangerous road, on the side of hills, where, if a horse should stumble, he would fall two hundred feet down into the river. We traveled through large white sand banks, and passed the falls, where the Indians catch great quantities of fish, We stayed among these Indians awhile, They seem very religious. We prayed together, and gave them some bread. They sang and prayed before they eat, and then returned thanks afterwards. At this place some of our Methodist missionaries had preached. We crossed a small river below the falls, where while we stopped to let our animals graze, we had some of our articles stolen by the Indians. We passed the “Dalles,” or Narrows, where the Columbia River is contracted to not more than twenty yards wide. Around this place the Indians are numerous.

Shortly after this, we arrived at the Methodist mission, where brother Daniel Lee, brother Perkins, brother Brewer and their families are stationed. They are making some progress among the Indians. I was truly glad to see a Methodist house, and see Methodist people once more. They were very good to us, and supplied us with provision free of charge. I was often invited to eat with them but not to sleep in the house. I tried to preach to them one night, and had a very good time. After resting three days, we left them and traveled on with four men and one family. We passed two mountains — Mount St. Helena and Mount Hood. The tops of these mountains are covered with perpetual snow and may be seen for one hundred miles. We lodged on a large creek in company with some Indians. The Indians requested me to hold prayers with them, which I did. From thence we struck through to the falls of the Willamette River. On our way we passed through the thickest woods I ever saw in my life, mostly spruce, pith pine, and fir trees. In these thickets it is almost like night in mid-day, so dense is the forest of large and heavy topped trees. The high hills, logs, and mud-holes made travel very difficult, and even dangerous. There was a woman and three children in company with us, while we lay out two nights in the rain. I had a buffalo rug for a tent cloth. Here are some of the largest trees I ever saw in my life; some of them are supposed to be two hundred and fifty feet high. One tree, which I measured, was thirty feet in circumference. We passed a number of large water-falls, affording great water power for mills. There are also a great many fine, cold springs.

After traveling eight days of a wearisome journey, we reached the Methodist mission, at the Falls of the Willamette River, where brother Wilson and brother Waller are missionaries. Here I lay out under the saplings in the woods and slept but little on account of the fleas. Mr. Moore, from Missouri, came and stayed with me. Some young men who were building a ship, came and supplied us with provisions.

September 9th.

We arrived at the beautiful plains of Willamette, where we staled with Mr. Hubbard, who was married to an Indian woman, as are all the white men in this country, except the missionaries. He used us very well, and charged us nothing. Today I traveled up the river among the beautiful plains, and had a view of Mt. Jefferson and Mt. M’Laughlin, the tops of which are elevated above the clouds, covered with snow, and may, I think, be seen one hundred miles as may also some other mountains in this region. I rode to Jason Lee’s station, the first he built after going there, and gave him a bundle of papers that were sent to him, Here are several missionaries. Next day I rode to brother Judson’s missionary station, where they have built a grist and sawmill, and are doing a very good business for themselves. I remained awhile at brother Judson’s and brother Ouley’s, where I enjoyed myself Very well, and became acquainted with brother Holeman and brother Hines and brother Campbell. They and their families seemed very friendly. I then returned to Lee’s old station, and stayed at brother Raymonds, who gave me some small presents. I went to hear brother Lasley (one of the missionaries) preach on Sunday. He preached a cold, formal sermon. In the afternoon I tried to preach to them. We had but a small congregation, all dull and flat. I said within myself, “I fear the world, and speculation, has too much influence over these missionaries.” It is in vain for men to come to this country to teach the Indians the way of salvation, and be so indifferent themselves. I said, “0 Lord, turn away the captivity of Zion, and send faithful laborers into this vineyard, to teach the way of salvation to the heathen.” These Indians are of the Callapooyan tribe, and the missionaries have as yet learned but little of their language. They have no regular school here at this time, but are making preparations to build a house at the upper station, but none here. Nor are there any converted Indians here. I believe there have been three or four that were members of the Methodist Episcopal Church, but there are none now, and no Indian society at all on the Willamette. They say that the Roman Catholics tried to hinder their influence in this country. The Catholics have a majority of the French and Indians. I was often asked by the Indians to go to their camps and hold prayer meetings with them. I fell in company with brother Frost, one of the missionaries who lived at the mouth of the Columbia River, among the Chenook Indians. I told him I had a mind to go down there with him; and I started in a canoe down the Willamette River, in company with some Chenook Indians. We lay out two nights before we reached the Falls. One night it rained upon us. We reached the Falls, and stayed there one night. Brother Waller preached to a few of the Klackamus Indians, and brother Frost exhorted, and I exhorted through an interpreter. These men preached in the “jargon”, (a language or dialect taken from the tribes), but did not altogether understand the language used by the natives. Brother Waller and myself went down to the mouth of the Klackmus River to preach to the Indians; but with little effect. Here is the place where. the Roman Catholics hold their meetings, That night tried to preach to a few whites, but with little effect. I did not now sleep out in the woods as I did before, being in company with brother Frost.

Next day we started down to Fort Vancouver, which we reached in two days. Here I met with Mr. Littlejohn, and concluded to go with him to Qualitine Plains, as he was about moving, and was to start that night, or the next morning. So I brought up my baggage to the house where Littlejohn was staying, and with his consent put them in there, without asking leave of Mr. M’Laughlin, the proprietor. Immediately after, Mr. M’Laughlin came into the house, looking very angry; he asked me if I had any recommendation to him. I told him I had not. He then told me he could not receive me. I showed him my credentials as a preacher in the Methodist Church, but he cared not for these. I then asked him to let my articles lay a few hours in his room, but it was not granted. He is an ill-natured, old Roman Catholic. I went down to the river and stayed with some people who were going to travel with me. Next day we went down to the mouth of the Willamette River, then went up it in a canoe, and laid on the bank. Next day I went on foot across the mountain, in company with Samuel Kelsey. Climbing over the mountains and traversing the plains, fatigued me; and by so ever-heating myself, it gave me the chills and fevers for near a week.

October 29th,

Wet weather is now beginning to set in, and it continues until the first of April, and then it is dry all summer. Not much corn can be raised here. Good wheat, oats, barley, onions, potatoes, beets, carrots, peas, beans, turnips and etc. grow very well here. These prairies afford fine grazing; for on them horses, cattle, sheep and hogs will be fat in the winter as in the summer. The streams all abound with salmon. The tide-water comes up to the Falls. There are several fishing places along these rivers; plenty of springs of clear, good and cold water. The best portion of the country lies in the valleys along the streams. Elk, bear and deer are found in the mountains. The people dwelling on the plain are subject to the chills and fevers. I soon recovered though, from this disease and began to try to preach to the people at this place, where there are but ten or twelve families.

Here I met with brother and sister Carter, who are excellent people, and were kind to me. Sister Carter is a true believer in Christ. I then stayed a few weeks with Mr. Kelsey, who was one of our company from the United States. I built a house on an improved piece of land, to live in by myself; but I soon found it would not do. Mr. Kelsey and his wife were very poor, though kind. These times passed very unpleasantly. I attended the preaching of Mr. Griffin, a Presbyterian missionary from the east. He showed me no friendship at all. Sometimes I would exhort after he was done, asking the leave of the people; but he would leave the house. He soon lost the good will of the people, They seemed desirous that I should preach to them. I felt my heart much pained to see the coldness of the preachers, and the low state of religion. I got word from Willamette to return there. So I started back in company with brother and sister Carter, and brother Abert. The waters being very deep, we had to cross on logs and swim our animals. We lay out that night in the woods. Next morning we started early, and reached the Falls of the Willamette, at brother Waller’s and brother Wilson’s. Passed a waste cabin, where I had laid out a few nights before, hunting horses. I tarried at the Falls of the Willamette, waiting for a passage up the river. I tried to labor in picking brush and clearing, for brother Waller, but could not do much at all.

Here Satan much disturbed my peace. I was much plagued with needless fears and distress of mind, looking back to my family. Nearly three thousand miles from my home, my clothes beginning to get thread-bare, somewhat affected with the rheumatism, my money almost gone, by brethren seeming to look coldly and indifferently at me, all combined to depress me in spirits, I attended, with brother Waller, some Indian meetings, and tried to preach to the white people. I prayed mightily to God to deliver me from all my needless fears, and from all sin. On New Year’s day, I started in company with some Frenchmen, up the Willamette, in a canoe. This rapid stream is very dangerous to navigate above the Falls. Some canoes had been overset here; but the Lord preserved us. I had given my name, and the name of the place where I lived to brother Waller, so that in case I should be drowned or die, he might write home to my family. I came to our landing place, and then I had to walk about fifteen miles through the water and mud. It was sometime in the night before I reached Mr. Roe’s, where I stayed that night, and next morning started on foot for the Methodist mission, with my saddle-bags on my back. I traveled all day in the wet and at night missed my way; and coming to a water about a hundred yards wide, I feared to enter in. I hallooed, and a Frenchman rode across to me, and I followed Jennings, a French Catholic, who was very kind and friendly to me. I was very wet and cold. This day’s traveling caused me to lay by nearly all the winter with the rheumatism. This night I felt happy in God, to think he had brought me safely so far, it being now January 6, 1842. +

Next day, Sunday, I got to the Methodist mission, and heard brother Parish preach. Their meetings still seem cold and flat. At night I attended prayer meeting. I do not feel well, either in body or soul. My only prayer is that God would give me victory over myself, that I may be wholly given up to him. I told the missionaries they might do much more for the Indians than they were doing, as they had no schools, and very few meetings for the Indians, and at some stations, no preaching to them at all. I soon fell under their displeasure. They examined me about my authority to preach, I showed them my credentials. They asked me if I had a recent recommendation from the elder or circuit preacher. I told them I had not. “Then”, said they, “we cannot receive you as a preacher” But this did not shut up my way, for I had plenty of friends to preach to, without these few individuals. These dear people, who are sent to preach to the Indians, I fear have either lost their spirit of their station, or else never had it.+

I went to brother Lasley’s and stayed a week, although the old man is, in his own way, very stiff, rigid and self- conceited. He was very kind and obliging, .however, to me. Brother Jason Lee came in and stayed all night. We had considerable talk about the state of the mission. He told me that I knew but little about the mission, as I was only a stranger passing through the country; and counseled me not to state anything about them, except what I knew. I replied, that I should state only what I knew, and what I had good reason to believe, “At this time”, said he, “we are pre- paring to erect a very large building, for the purpose of teaching the Indian children”, I believe that it is brother Lee’s intention to do good for the heathen, but it seems he has a great deal of business on hand which seems a hindrance to the work of religion. They have had some kind of a school heretofore, but I believe not to much purpose. These people are so scattered up and down in the mountains and valleys, that it seems hard to make much progress; and in the summer they are all out digging roots and hunting. In this scat- tered situation it is hard to keep up any kind of a society until the young ones are informed by schools, and get to farming and become a more settled people; and until missionaries succeed in this work, I fear there will be but little good done towards religion; for while they live in their old Indian habits, they will not live up to any kind of discipline. They are a poor, indigent and distressed people.

In conversation with brother O’Neal, he tells me that the white people live without any form of law; but in general are very honorable in paying their debts, and give notes and bonds, They have no sheriffs, constables, fees nor taxes to pay. They profess to be very hospitable to strangers and kind to one another. No breaking each other up for debts. Here are no distilleries, no drunkenness nor much swearing. They seem indeed to be a very happy people. They have large droves of horses and cattle which graze on the green grass all winter and there is no other cost or trouble to raise stock than to keep them from going wild.

The greater part of our American mountain men, and some of their Indian women, have joined the Methodist Episcopal Church, and are good citizens. In this country there are about four classes of people: First, the Hudson Bay Company, mostly Canadians. Second, the New England missionaries. Third, the French farmers, mostly Catholics. Fourth, the mountain men who have settled along the Willamette River. At Vancouver they keep a large quantity of goods which they sell very cheap. English ships come in about twice a year. They belong to the Hudson Bay Company and exchange their goods for beaver and other skins, flour, beef and pork.

There was lately a very serious circumstance took place with a man named Monger, one of the mechanics of the Presbyterian mission, who conceited that he was a great prophet and said that if he were to burn himself to death God would raise him up again, To test the truth of what he said, he went into a shop by himself, where he made a great fire and then hauled out the coals and laid down upon them. His wife, being in another part of the house, heard him making a great noise and ran into the room and found him struggling in the pangs of death. She, with the help of some others, got him out of the fire. He then saw his dreadful delusion and prayed the Lord to forgive him. He lived about three days after this and then expired. He had always appeared to be a sincere man and we hope that the Lord heard his prayer and forgave him. How careful ought Christians to be to shun the delusions of the devil!

The Roman Catholics here appear to be buying the good will of the people by presents, and, I believe, are trying to get the control of the Indians. I fear our missionaries are too scornful toward the poor, naked Indians; indeed too much so with all the poor people,

January 25th,

I offered a few thoughts on just- ification and redemption to their class-room. At this time my mind is a good deal troubled about the difficulties of my returning home. These words came very forcibly to my mind: “Let not your hearts be troubled; ye believe in God, believe also in me.” These words are great words of joy and comfort to my soul. I could not for a moment doubt the promise of God. Why am I not more resigned to suffer all things that come upon me?

Next Sabbath I went out to Mr. Rowe’s, about sixteen miles, to preach; but the appointment had fell through. Went that night to Dr. Bailey’s, and returned next day to the mission. My knees became very painful with the rheumatism. I went to brother Abernathy’s, who used me well. I then went around among the people, but had very hard and dry times. Oh why is “the god of this world” so much reverenced? Why is it that these missionaries, who are sent here to convert the Indians, cannot find any time to do it? These poor, tawny sons of the forest, wandering about with no kind shepherd to watch over them, are often driven from door to door. They look dirty and filthy, which does not suit the delicate feelings of the people. They are often heard to pray for the Indians, yet do but little for them. “But we intend”, say they, “when we get better fixed, to do something for them”; and some of them say, “We ought to have higher salaries, and then we could do more for them. But we must take good care of our own household, for ‘charity begins at home'”. One Indian said, “What did white men come here for, if they could not bear with poor Indian? Why do they not try more to learn us the good book?” They often reply, “We will do something when we get ready” These poor Indians almost starve for something to eat, which causes them to steal and then they often get whipped for it. The poor things know but little about farming and their game is nearly gone, I know not what the consequence will be. They have great complaints against the white people, seeing they know not what plan to fall upon to make their living, and the white people are killing all their game.

I stayed a few days at brother Holeman’s and tried to shave shingles three or four days, but it hurt my knees so much that I had to quit it. I then tried to cross-cut saw three or four days, but this also hurt my knees so that I could not stand it. Brother M’Cadden, brother Hines and his wife, and brother Campbell and his wife gave me some articles of clothing, which were very acceptable. I hope the Lord will reward them. Here I saw a scene of distress which shocked me. There came a company of poor, starved Indians through the mud, and finding an old horse of Jason Lee’s which had died, they cut him up and carried him off with joyful looks and glad hearts, although the carcass was so stinking that we could hardly come near it and the hogs and dogs had been eating at it.

I will now give a short account of the missions in Oregon:

First: The highest up is the Catholic mission, on the Columbia River. Mr. de Smidt, and two other priests, are stationed there. They baptized a great many – six hundred the first winter, and a great many more since. Mr. Blancet, on the Willamette, has a great many French and Canadians.

Second: The Presbyterian mission – Dr. Whiteman’s and Mr. Gray’s. They have a respectable congregation of Indians, yet they have had some trouble and have had their lives threatened by the Indians. They have begun a very good farm, and this past summer raised about six hundred bushels of wheat, a small crop of corn and about one hundred bushels of all kinds of melons, pumpkins and cucumbers. All kinds of vegetation seem to grow well. Some timber and beautiful plains all about and a small mill. The natives are mostly of the Skyuse Indians. They are making small progress in farming. Mr. Spalding, on the Snake River, among the Nezperces, is doing well and is teaching the Indians to farm. His wife is teaching the women to spin and weave. They have begun to raise flocks of sheep. Mr. Walker and Mr. Smith are missionaries, some distance apart, and are trying to teach the Indians. Next is Mr, Griffin, at the Qualitine Plains, but he is not doing anything.

Third: The Methodist missions – the first is Mr. Frost, at the mouth of the Columbia River, among the Chenooks and Klackamus Indians, below Fort George; but there is nothing doing there for the Indians. Brother Cohen, one of the preachers, has left there,

Fourth: In the care of Dr. Richmond, on the other side of the Columbia, at the Puget Sound, among the Nisqually Indians; who, it is said, have chiefly left there.

Fifth: The station at the Falls of the Willamette, where brother Waller is the preacher, and brother Wilson the mechanic. These are of the Klackamus Indians, Brother Waller preaches almost every Sabbath, but seems to do but little good. There is no society there. They say that the Roman Catholic priests prejudice the minds of the Indians against them. Brother Waller and brother Wilson are very much enthralled in working and trading, and have but little time to do anything for the Indians. Perhaps times may soon alter.

Sixth: At the Dalles, or Narrows, on the Columbia River. Brother Daniel Lee and brother Perkins, preachers, and brother Brewer, farmer. They have had a great many under their influence, and some souls have been converted. They have a tolerably good society. Brother Lee and brother Perkins seem very diligent in traveling round, and preaching, and I believe are faithful men. They were assisted by a back-sliding preacher, (Mr. Wright), who was reclaimed amongst them, and the Lord blessed his labors in that place. They are about building a log house to preach in. They have got a small farm and raise some wheat, and raised about four hundred bushels of potatoes this summer, This is a very hilly place, but healthy. Good salmon, and other fish in abundance.

Seventh: Brother Jason Lee’s, on the Willamette River, surrounded with beautiful plains. They are among the Callapooyan Indians. They have considerable business going on, and own herds of cattle. Their mission cattle number about three hundred head. It is somewhat sickly here. Mr. Jason Lee is the superintendent, and brother Lasley and brother Hinds are the itinerant preachers. Brother Lee has lost his second wife and brother Lasley has lost his first. Brother Sheppard died. Brother parish (Parish) is the blacksmith and preach. Brother Babcock is the doctor and class-leader. Brother Abernaty is the store-keeper. Mr. Raymond and Mr. Bears are farmers. Brother Whitcomb is very sickly and not able to do anything. They have about two hundred acres of land under cultivation and hire Indians to work for them. They live in good, warm, log houses and have plenty to live on and live well; have good horses to ride, according to the customs of this country — that is, can go in a full gallop; and they dress as well as any other set of gentlemen in the Oregon Territory. In this station there are neither Indian schools nor Indian meetings this winter. The Indians appear to be getting a little shy of them, and distant. The French farmers and French Catholics accuse them of being too unfriendly to strangers and the poor. Brother Babcock told me they were willing to receive me as a man, but not as a preacher, because I had not a recent recommendation from the presiding elder, Truly, I did not look much like a preacher; for after traveling three thousand miles, my old linsey coat looked very shabby. But many of the people about there said, if I had worn as fine a coat as Dr, Babcock, I would have been well received. I felt contended, but was very sorry to see some of them so high-minded, and doing so little in the cause of God. I fear they have lost the spirit to speculation, I leave this to be determined in the day of judgment, but fear the bad example of some here will do great hurt to the heathen.

Eighth: The new station at the mill nine miles above the old station, on the Willamette River, situated on a delightful plain, beautifully studded with green groves of fir trees, and having a creek running through it with a grist-mill and a saw-mill which supplies the country all around with grinding and lumber. Here we see herds of cattle grazing on the plains, Brother Jason, preacher and mechanic, who labors very hard, has the charge of the mills. Brother Auley, preacher and mechanic, also labors hard with a number of hired men, working at the school-house. They are about building a large seminary, which, if completed and properly conducted, may be of great service. Here brother Lee has held some Indian meetings, in a small shanty near the mill. I attended with him at some of the meetings, and the Indians behaved very well. Some others and myself exhorted after him. Brother Campbell is class-leader, and brother Hinds sometimes meets the children in another shanty. Here, I thought, there were too many missionaries living in one place. It may be brother Lee is right in keeping them all together, but I thought differently. Brother Lasley and brother Hinds stay too much at home, and only preach sometimes on Sundays, I have not seen any Indians converted here, nor do I know of any.

I was now about beginning to fit up for my return to the States, it being the first of March. This seemed a long and tedious winter to me. Brother Sutton, brother Campbell and brother Judson drew up a small subscription, and made up plenty to supply me on the road. Brother M’Cadden and brother Larrison gave orders to Dr. Whiteman to give me two horses on the head of the Wallawalla River. A few nights before I started, I stayed with old Mr. Jervais, a Frenchman. He gave me a detailed account of the Indians, who he said, were rapidly diminishing in number, and wasting away on that side of the Mountains. He had lived here most of his time for thirty years. He says more of the Indians have died within ten or fifteen years past, than formerly, and that he has known three thousand to die in two years on the Sacramento and Maries Rivers, and in other places in the Oregon, mostly with the ague and fever and venereal diseases; together with the effects of exposure to the wet weather, and for the want of food. Sometimes, he says, he has seen whole lodges of them lying dead together, the little infants sucking the breasts of their dead mothers, and no one to do anything for them. He has known them to kill and eat their own children when almost starved and has known an Indian to choke his little child to death because it was cross and hindered its mother from digging roots, which are their chief food. A Frenchman told me that he knew three Indians to kill eleven men, women and children and live on their flesh all winter! These poor, wicked and degraded creatures seem as if destined to destruction. They are always at war with one another and sell their prisoners for slaves, as the white people of our slave states sell the negroes. What a monster is man in his natural state, without cultivation or religion!

Those Callapooyans, on the Willamette River, appear to be a lazy and degraded people. All the rivers between the Willamette and Californis, are mostly settled with un- cultivated people. On the Ambakaw River there are beautiful plains, which may make handsome farms. The Yamhill River also affords a beautiful prospect south of the Willamette. All along here the country is settled with Indians.

April 3rd.

I attended the sacrament among the missionaries, It looked like a cold, lonesome time. I took but little part with them, but wished them all well in my heart; although sorry to see such a cold, indifferent spirit among them. Tuesday, I started down the river in a canoe, in company with Jason Lee, Lasley, Rogers, Ross and two Indians. This day it rained on us all day and it was very cold rain, We stayed with Charles Ross that night on the bank of the river. The next day we had a pleasant time to sail and reached the Falls that night. I tried to preach that night at brother Hathaway’s, from Luke xii, 24: “Strive to enter in at the straight gate”. Brother Lee and brother Lasley exhorted after me. I think some good impressions were made on the minds of the people. The next morning, soon after we started, the rain began to fall, accompanied with high winds. We soon found ourselves wet and cold and the river being very rough, we stopped about 2 o’clock and camped under some fir trees. The next morning we started, and reached Vancouver about 11 o’clock, and camped on the bank of the river. Here brothers Lasley, Lee, Clark and Rogers went and lodged with Dr. M’Laughlin, the great rich man, who had refused on a former occasion to receive me. Here I stayed in company with Ross, and some Indians, with the property, at the camp. It was very cold, rainy and windy, and I was invited to the house of a Scotchman, who kept a hospital near our camp and I was well provided for by Mr. Douglass, one of the Hudson Bay Company, I felt well resigned to the will of God, whether to be exalted or abased.

Mr. Laslie preached at M’Laughlin’s on Sunday. He tried to tower very high before the nobility, but seemed to have little power in his preaching. Mr. Lee exhorted after him. The old doctor, Mr. M’Laughlin, attended meeting with his Catholic brethren, in another place. He appears to have the uncontrolled sway of all the people around the place and the Fort, mostly Canadians, French and Indians. His hire- lings he calls his servants; and they all appear to have to stay with him until he gives them a discharge. He is a wicked old sinner. Our Methodist missionaries seem very much at home with him and he seems somewhat kind to them, I suppose for self-interest. He is very wealthy and belongs to the English company. We stayed nearly ten days, expecting a ship, which we thought had some letters for Jason Lee; but started a few hours before the ship came in. But we heard the roaring of the cannon, as a signal that the ship was coming in. We lay that night about ten miles from Vancouver, on the bank of the river. The next day was the Sabbath, and we lay by. On Monday, 22nd of April, we started up the river, passed a place called Cape Horn, and some high, large cliffs, like pyramids. It rained and snowed on us all along the hills. On Wednesday we passed the Cascades, In two places we had to carry our canoes and baggage about half a mile, through the large, rough rocks and mud, along the bank of the river. While we were busy doing so, the Indians stole some of our articles. All night we lay in the wet and cold, the rain still continuing on us. We had a sort of ten-cloth, which did but little good. We kindled a fire next morning, cooked breakfast, made some coffee, and it seemed to nourish us. This morning we heard a tremendous rumbling, like thunder, but found it was the rocks falling from the cliffs.

This day we passed some very dangerous places on our route, where several people had been drowned. Here Mr. Lasley showed us a place where he and his company had been overset; but fortunately, all were saved but one child. The wind blew fair and we hoisted sail and went up the river very fast. The waves run very high and sometimes ran over the sides of our canoe. The next day we reached Dalles or Narrows. Here we held some meetings and I felt at liberty to enjoy myself among Christians. I tried to preach to them and exhort. These kind people used us very well and seemed full of zeal for the cause of God, Here the Indians, also, seem to have religion. Brother Lee and brother Perkins seemed to be doing much good. On Sunday night I proposed taking the parting hand at a prayer meeting, and to bid them farewell in public. Brother Jason Lee, brother Lasley and brother Rogers rose up and opposed it, yet could assign no reason why; but they said, “We are all determined to meet in heaven, without giving each other our hands”; and said further, that “their prayer meeting was not quite over”, which I thought was very imprudent in them. They hurt some feelings by it. I told Mr. Lee the next morning that I thought he acted very imprudently. He had been too full of vain talk while coming up the river. That day we parted. Ross, Rogers, some Indians and I pursued our journey, leaving the others at the Dalles. We hired some Indians, with their horses, to carry us up to Dr. Whiteman’s. That day we were in sight of Mt. Hood and Mt. St. Helena, whose tops were covered with snow. We reached the De Shutz River after dark, and it was too deep to cross that night. It rained on us almost all night. Next morning we arose, wet and cold. The Indians soon came and helped us over, and swam our horses across by the side of their little tottering canoes, for which we gave them some tobacco and continued our journey in the rain.

Came to the Johndays River, It was very deep and full, and we crossed in the Indians’ little canoe, and swam our horses as before. Next morning came to the Umatilla River. It was also very full, occasioned by the rain, and melting of the snow. The Indians helped us across, as formerly, and we paid them in tobacco. These Indians are the Umatilla’s. About twenty of them stayed with us part of the night, and I sang and prayed with them and exhorted them to turn to the Lord and need for religion. A young Indian man by the name of Elijah, a son of one of the chiefs, who could talk some English, had obtained religion, and was my interpreter. He exhorted them some himself. They seemed to be much affected, and were very friendly. The next day we bought some fish of them, and starting on, passed the Wallawalla; and late at night we reached some Indian encampments, where we lodged with, and bought some venison of them. The following day we traveled over some high, rich prairies, and saw some beautiful droves of Indian horses, That night we reached the Presbyterian mission, where Dr. Whiteman and Mr. Gray live.

Here we spent two weeks, waiting for Mr. Grant and his company. I lodged with Mr. Gray, my old friend, who was very kind to me, as was also his wife. Next Sabbath I tried to preach to the people here. I bless the Lord for opening my way by good friends.

May 4th.

As I was coming in at the door of Mr. Gray’s house, an Indian within was fixing the lock of his gun. It went off just as I was stepping up before the muzzle of it, which I did not see. I had just made a short pause, which saved me from being shot through the head. I bless the Lord for his mercy, in protecting me from this sudden death. This evening, Mr. Edward Bogers arrived to go with us to the United States. We are now but three in number, but I hope the Lord will open our way. We are dreading the high waters, in consequence of the snow melting in the mountains. Here we see the Indians, both men and women, out in the plains and mountains digging roots to dry for food for themselves. But some of them are beginning to make little farms and to raise wheat. Mr. Walker and another missionary, with their families, have arrived at Dr . Whiteman’s, having come about one hundred and eighty miles to hold an annual meeting. They galloped out, about four or five miles into the plains to amuse themselves. They had with them a coarse violin, which was poor music on Sunday. They read two sermons, which was all the preaching that was done. They appeared very dull in religion and I did not hear them say that they have any Indian converts.

The Indians have no ceremonies in their marriages. When the young woman makes the match, the young man gives her a horse and her father gives her one also. This ratifies the bargain between the two young people. They must also have the consent of the chief of that tribe, then they are considered man and wife. Among other tribes it is somewhat different. When a young man of the Shinnes marries a young woman all of her sisters are counted as his wives.

May 17 –

We started after having completed our outfit. Each of us had one pack-horse with provisions. Mr. Gray offered to furnish me with everything I needed, without charging me a cent. Mr. Cornelius Rogers also offered to help me, but I thanked him, telling him that Mr. Gray had fully equipped me. Mr. Rogers, however, was very helpful to me. We went on seven miles that day. Next night we joined company with him on Horse Creek. His company was composed of French and Indians, and half breeds, mostly Roman Catholics. There are some beautiful prairies about here, but no timber except on the creeks, where there was some cottonwood. A beautiful creek runs through these plains. This place is very healthy and well calculated for raising horses, cattle and sheep, They say that on the head of the Wallawalla in this country, the ewes will have their lambs twice a year, and young heifers, sixteen months old will have calves. Cattle and horses need no feeding in the winter.

Next day we crossed the Umatilla River, and passed the farm where the young chief lives. Here is good land, beautifully diversified with low hills. The Indians are beginning to make small farms. The chief has a handsome place, and a tolerably good house. We camped about six miles from the Umatilla River. All the way along, we could see the snow upon the Blue Mountains, which lay on our left hand. Here we passed some of the prettiest gangs and bands of horses I ever saw in my life, belonging to the Indians. Some of the Indians own four or five hundred head. All the plains and valleys are covered with green grass to within a few yards of the snow, which covers the mountains.

May 22nd. We ascended to the top of one of the spurs of the Blue Mountains, where we passed some snow drifts and descended among the beautiful pine trees. We lay that night on a beautiful plain, where we had good grazing for our horses, and plenty of wood, and good water. We had a heavy frost and some ice that morning. That day being Sunday, I requested Mr. Grant to rest, but he said he had got so far behind that he was obliged to go on. On Monday night we reached the Grand Round. This is a beautiful valley, all covered with snow. Here the pine grows on the mountains but not in the plains. This is on the waters of the Snake River. On Tuesday night we lay on the waters of Powder River. There is plenty of good land all around us, and good water. Next day we traveled through rich plains, and the mountains lay on our right hand, covered with pine trees. All through this country good mill-seats abound. We had deep waters to cross all along, caused by the melting of the snow on the mountains. We passed some banks of snow that were three feet deep. We had rain that day and at night we lay on a branch of the Powder River. We had plenty of cold water to drink, and plenty of timber to make our fire. Here I heard it thunder, for the first of any consequence since last June. We crossed the main Powder River, and passed through some rich land with good water and large plains. It rained on us that day also. We camped that night on a small branch of Bruly River and next day we traveled over rough ridges and hills.

June 1st. We stopped on Snake River at Fort Bois. This day I heard some dreadful oaths from Mr. Grant, about some threats which he had heard from Mr. Bridger, one of the American Fur Company, against Fort Hall; and respecting the goods which had been stolen by Mr. Bridger’s Company from the Hudson Bay Company.

We are now detained on Snake River. I feel very unpleasant in my present situation, on account of the noise of the French and Indians. We started up the Snake River, where we were tormented with the mosquitoes and almost stifled with dust. While chopping some wood, I struck the tomahawk into my shin-bone, and it bled very copiously. Mr, Grant then came up, and applied some medicine to it which stopped the blood, and it got well in a few days. Here I had the charge of three horses, (one pack-horse), and my gun, to carry which was very fatiguing to me. My situation seems unpleasant, for instead of being in the pulpit on the Sabbath day, I am packing my gun on my back and driving my horses before me. I feel much worn out and tired. My eyes were almost ruined with the dust. Mr. Grant gave me a piece of silk veil, which he tore from his own. This I put over my eyes and found it to be a great help to me. Mr. Grant has been very kind to me, although he is subject to intoxication. After leaving Fort Bois, we crossed the Wyhee River, and so continued up Snake River.

Here an unhappy circumstance occurred with an Indian woman. Her husband had three wives and had turned her away and took another in her place. At night she put on her best clothes, made some small arrangements, and took a rope and hung herself upon the corner of a high rock. Her mother, passing by, saw her hanging, apparently dead, and soon cut her down, Mr. Grant was immediately sent for. He bled her, and gave her some medicine, and she came to again. She could not speak for some days. What villains these men are, that act so cruelly toward their women.

All along up this river we could see snow on the mountains, while we were suffering with heat in the plains. Here we passed by the Trois Butes, which were on our right hand. We hear some unfavorable news about the hostility of the Indians between here and the United States, and we have no assurance of company farther than Fort Hall, except one man beside ourselves, making four in all. But I am determined to persevere, unless my way is completely stopped up, trusting that God will protect me, and open the way for my return — though it looks dark and gloomy, through lonesome hills and valleys, and over mountains which reach almost to the clouds and across waters, deep and dangerous.

Here we had an example of the hardihood of the Indians. One of their women, whose husband had gone on to Fort Hall, stayed behind the company by herself, and was delivered of a still-born child. She buried it in the sand, than mounted her horse and came on. Some of the company, missing her, went back about seven or eight miles and met her coming on.

Thursday, June 16th.

We arrived at Fort Hall. Here we saw the Snake Indians holding a dance around a scalp, which they had taken from the Black Feet Indians. They had set the scalp upon the top of a pole. Here we learned from the Indians that the Black Feet and Crows and Sioux were determined to kill all the white people they could. This did not disturb me much, for I trusted in the Lord that he would be with me. On Sunday I tried to preach to these people, who seem to be hard-hearted and wicked. Mr. Grant was drunk and made some disturbance. Here I was told that the Sanpach Indians would sell their wives for horses and sometimes kill their horses and eat them in case of hunger. Mr. Eubanks, who lived in Fort Hall, showed me a woman whom he lived with, and for whom he had given two hundred dollars.

June 28th.

We left Fort Hall; camped that night with a large company of French and Indians, who were on a hunting expedition. Next night we stayed on Ross Creek. Mr. Shutz is now our leader. We stayed next night on the head waters of the Pont Neuf River, and next night at the Soda Springs. Next day we traveled twenty miles up Bear River; then turned to the left and left Bear River to the right hand. We saw snow for five or six days on the mountains, whilst in the valleys the grass is much burnt. Next day we left a beautiful stream and crossed the mountains. We went through some small thickets of aspen trees and some pine. We saw a band of elks and antelopes. Stayed that night with a company of Ponark Indians, on a creek of Ham’s of Green River. We traded with these Indians, exchanging some tobacco and ammunition, for some buffalo skins, and halters for our horses. Next night we lay on a small branch of Green River.

July 3rd.

We reached Green River about an hour after night, where we expected the company to rendezvous; but found nothing there but one dog. We had expected some company from there to the United States.

Here I was told that the Eutaw Indians wish to have a missionary to come and settle amongst them and teach them to raise grain. I am of the opinion, that on the east side of Big Salt Lake, where the Bear River empties into it would be a great place to establish a mission, being well calculated for the raising of all kinds of grain. It is good, rich land, well watered and a healthy country. Fish and fowls are very plenty. A beautiful prairie, about one hundred miles long, lies between the lake and the mountains. The plains are covered with green grass all winter, and well calculated for raising stock. Some pines on the mountains, and cottonwood along the creeks and rivers that flow into the lake. It is about two hundred and fifty miles in circumference, and lies in 40 degrees north latitude.

From Green River, we turned out of our intended route, and went about a southwest course in order to avoid the Black Feet Indians.

We reached Bridger’s Fort. The company had left for the United States about thirty days before, and we saw nothing there but three little, starved dogs. We saw the grave of an Indian woman, who had been killed by the Shiennes. For here we could see the mountain-tops spotted with snow. Mr. Shutz began to talk of going back, but still I felt confident that there would be some way opened for me to get back to the United States, for I trusted in the Lord. This night I was somewhat alarmed by the running of the horses, and we had a rough road to travel. We came to a beautiful valley, where we found a fine, cool stream of water.

Next day we traveled through brush, and pine saplings, and rocks and logs so that we scarcely get along with our pack-horses. We went through piles of snow two feet deep, and camped on the side of the mountain. It both rained and snowed a little. Next day we traveled through brush and logs and rocks till 12 o’clock, and only gained half a mile. Then we began to ascend the mountain. The wife of one of the Frenchmen was our pilot. She had two children along, one tied to a board, and hung to the horn of the saddle, and the other in a blanket, tied to her back. When we got to the top of the mountain, it was raining, snowing and thundering. I was shivering with cold. There are elk and sheep on this mountain. There were snow piles on the mountain, yet there was green grass and flowers. It looked like the spring of the year. In descending the other side of the mountain, we passed the same kind of loose rocks that we had to come up on. It was very dangerous on account of the rocks, which were easily started to rolling down the mountains endangering the legs of our horses. At night we got down to a beautiful, clear lake at the head of a small creek that came out of the mountains. Here we stayed two days. Mr. Miles and his squaw were both taken sick. Mr. Shutz started on Saturday, by himself, to go to Rubedeau’s Fort, on Wintey River.

Next day, a Sabbath, Rogers and Ross were anxious to start on to Rubedeau’s Fort. I gave up to go with them, (not, however, without some scruples of conscience for traveling on the Sabbath,) as I was anxious to know the prospect of company to go with us from thence to the States. So, we started on, and left two men and their wives at the lake. We soon got lost, having no pilot, and had to travel by guess, pressing over steep hills and through brush, and logs, saplings and rocks. Our horses were almost distracted with swarms of lies (flies). This night we got to a small prairie by a small stream where we stayed all night. Next morning we continued our way through logs and brush again and got to the brow of the mountain, on its southern declivity, but saw no way down. We went back and forth seeking a place to get down and about an hour before sunset we commenced to descent. Our horses were sometimes sliding down among the stones. I went foremost and while leading my horse, I was afraid of getting my bones broke with the loose rocks that were now and then rolling down from above. We scrambled along, however, till we got down to the base of the mountain, after dark, which was about a mile and a quarter. When we reached the bottom we were wet and cold. We found that we had lost four of our horses, two of them with packs on them. Next morning we found them, and were glad to find that nothing was lost but my saddle-blanket. This morning we had some frost. We are now on the head of the Wintey River, down which we pursued our journey toward Rubedeau’s Fort. About two miles of our journey was almost impassable for the brush, logs and rocks. Then we got out of the mountains into a prairie and reached the Fort about 2 o’clock.

We had to wait there for Mr. Rubedeau about eighteen days, till he and his company and horse-drivers were ready to start with us to the United States. This delay was very disagreeable to me, on account of the wickedness of the people, and the drunkenness and swearing and the debauchery of the men among the Indian women. They would buy and sell them to one another. One morning I heard a terrible fuss, because two of their women had run away the night before. I tried several times to preach to them but with little, if any effect.

Here I heard the mountain men tell of the miserable state of the Indian root-diggers. Numbers of them would be found dead from pure starvation, having no guns to kill game with, and poor shelters to live in, and no clothing except some few skins. These creatures have been known, when pressed with hunger, to kill their children and eat them! And to gather up crickets and ants, and dry them in the sun and pound them up into dust, and make bread of it to eat! These creatures, when traveling in a hurry, will leave their lame and blind to perish in the wilderness. Here we have a striking example of the depravity of the heathen in their natural state. I was told here of a Frenchman who lived with an Indian woman, and when one of his children became burdensome, he dug a grave and buried it alive! At another time he took one of his children and tied it to a tree, and called it a “target”, and shot at it, and killed it!

Mr. Rubedeau had collected several of the Indian squaws and young Indians, to take to New Mexico, and kept some of them for his own use! The Spaniards would buy them for wives. This place is equal to any I ever saw for wickedness and idleness. The French and Spaniards are all Roman Catholics, but are as wicked men, I think, as ever lived. No one who has not, like me, witnessed it, can have any idea of their wickedness, Some of these people at the Fort are fat and dirty, and idle and greasy.

July 27th.

We started from Rubedeau’s Fort, and crossed the Wintey River, and next crossed Green and White Rivers. Next night we lay on Sugar Creek, the water of which was so bitter we could scarcely drink it. Here two of Rubedeau’s squaws ran away, and we had to wait two days till he could send back to the Fort for another squaw, for company for him.

August 1st.

We camped that night under a large rock, by a small stream, where we could get but very little grass for our animals. Next night we lay under the Pictured Rock, and being sheltered from the rain, slept very comfortably. Next day we traveled over rough roads and rocks, and crossed the Grand River, a branch of the Colorado, which runs into the Gulf of California, at the head thereof. Next day we crossed another fork of Grand River, and came to Fort Compogera, below the mouth of the Compogera River.

August 14th.

Sunday – I preached to a large company of French, Spaniards, Indians, half-breeds and Americans, for Proverbs xiv, 32: “The wicked is driven away in his wickedness, but the righteous hath hope in his death”. I felt the power of the word, and I believe some of the people felt it also. I spoke plainly and pointedly to them, and felt as though I would be clear of their blood in the day of eternity.

Next day we started to go through New Mexico, which is a long distance out of our route, to shun the range of the Apahoc Indians, and at night we camped on a small creek. Tuesday morning, we started and crossed Union River. Next day we crossed Lake River and lay that night on a small creek. Here are good, clear streams of water, but rough, hilly roads — rocky, sandy and gravelly; good grazing for our animals all the way.

August 19th.

We could see snow on the mountains. Today we had a very cold rain. The next day we came to Rubedeau’s wagon, which he had left there a year before. He hitched his oxen to it and took it along. This morning my moccasins were frozen so hard I had to thaw them by the fire before I could put them on. Here we had reports of Indian hostilities having commenced near Santa Fe, in New Mexico. Rubedeau sent on an express to see whether it was so, and found it to be a false report.

Sunday. August 20th.

I arose, and the frost was like a little snow. My blanket, which I used for a tent cloth, being rained on the night before, was now frozen quite stiff and hard. We left this beautiful plain, which lies between two mountains, with a fine stream of water running through it. How different my feelings were on this Sabbath day, with my gun on my shoulder, and my butcher-knife and tomahawk by my side, in this heathen land, than they would have been in the pulpit with my Bible and Hymn Book in my hand. On Sabbath evening I tried to preach to them, but being wet and cold after traveling through mountains and plains, we had but little satisfaction. Next morning my blanket and moccasins were frozen hard again. Some snow and rain fell during the night. I pray God to give me more faith, more patience and more courage to preach the Gospel.

We are now on the waters of the Del Norte River, which falls into the Gulf of Mexico, and are passing the North Mountain. We are now traveling down Tous Valley, which leads down to Tous (a Spanish village) and Santa Fe. This is a beautiful valley, about eighty or a hundred miles long. We remained sometime in this valley, encamped by some beautiful streams of water, waiting for the express to return. We then traveled for several days about a south course, and encamped in the neighborhood of Tous. Here I tried in vain to persuade our company to leave Rubedeau; for he would detain us too late, as winter was coming on. It will be recollected that there were only four of us in company, bound for the United States; and Rubedeau had hired three of them to stay with him.

We are now in New Mexico, surrounded by Spaniards. They live in little houses covered with mud. The sides are mostly of posts set in the ground, and filled up with mud. In these houses they are warm and comfortable, on their dirt floors. Some of them build their houses with what they call “dobbeys”, made of mud, and the shape of brick. Here are beautiful, clear streams of water, and a very healthy country. It is no uncommon thing for the Spaniard in this region to live to the age of a hundred years. Their crops are mostly wheat. They sow it in the spring, and their harvest comes on in September, They have no fences around their farms; for every farmer that has stock, keeps herdsmen to guard his flocks. Like ancient shepherds, they have large flocks of sheep and goats to watch both day and night. The milk and meat of the goats are part of their food, and they also make excellent cheese of the milk. I went out to see them making molasses from their small corn-stalks. They ground them and then pressed out the juice, and boiled it into molasses. A great part of their ground they water by digging small channels, to convey the water to their farms. Mr. Turley, who lives here, has a mill and distillery, and makes a great many drunkards. Here the time seems to pass away very heavily. I fell very restless and lonesome, and want to be traveling towards home, These Spaniards are all Roman Catholics and live neatly and cleanly in their houses.

We started on for Bent’s Fort, which is about two hundred and fifty miles distant, on the Arkansas River. We traveled a north course, up the valley which we came down before. We have now furnished ourselves with provision, and have nothing to hinder us, and we mean to travel on as fast as we can. We saw Mr. Collins, who said he had been chased by the Indians. He was one of the trappers, and had come nearly the same route which we had. We crossed some high spurs, and saw it raining from the dark clouds below us. We heard the thunder roaring, saw the lightning flashing, while the sun was shining brightly where we were. That night we reached Red River, near where we lodged all night. Next day we traveled up the same valley, where we saw the Two Butes, which we had seen twenty days before.

September 3rd.

At night we reached the foot of the Tous Mountain. Here were plenty of bears, deer and antelope. That day it rained on us and we were wet and cold. Next day we crossed Tous Mountain, and camped on a small river, a branch of the Arkansas; on the next day crossed the Arkansas River and camped there that night. We then went down through the plains. We stayed on the Arkansas two nights, and saw bands of buffaloes. We not meet a great many travelers. This is poor, sandy land.

September 16th.

We reached Bent and Savery’s Fort, on the Arkansas River. We now have warm days and cool nights. I tried to preach on two Sabbaths, once from Revelation vi, 17: “For the great day of his wrath is come, and who shall be able to stand?” There was a Baptist preacher present, who was a backslider, who I afterwards learned, took notes of my sermon, and spoke his sentiments on it after I was gone. These people were wicked, and would play cards and billiards on the Sabbath. But they were very civil, friendly and kind to me. There was not as much swearing and drunkenness as at other places I had passed. Here we heard of eight men being killed this summer on this side of the mountain, by the Indians, at different times; two of whom had been killed on the route we had come along. At one time we had some trouble with our horses, they having strayed away. I bout some sugar and coffee, for each of which I gave two dollars a pound!

I have now about fourteen hundred miles to travel before I reach home. Five of us started on the 26th of September, to wit: Solomon P, Sublette, A. Shutz, James Ross, Mr. M’Carty and myself. We passed seventy or eighty lodges of the Shiennes Indians, as we came along. A lodge is made of about eight or nine elk skins dressed and sewed together, and stitched over poles sunk in the ground, and fastened at the top. This makes a good warm house to winter in. One of these will hold about twelve to fifteen persons. The first day we started, we traveled down the river about fourteen miles and camped. We have about seven hundred miles to travel to get to the United States, through a very dangerous route on account of the Pawnee and Camanche Indians. The next night we ate supper after sun-down; then started and traveled about five or six miles out into the prairie, and laid down and slept without fire, in order not to let the Indians know where we were. Here we saw droves and bands of buffaloes and wolves, some droves a mile long, pleasantly grazing on the beautiful plains. Sublette shot down a young bull, by which we got plenty of fresh meat. Every night we were disturbed by the howling of the wolves, and the noise of the buffalo bulls. One night I heard a noise near my bed, and throwing my blanket off of my head, beheld a wolf standing close by my side, but as I moved he instantly sprang away. Next morning we started by daylight. That day we saw hundreds and thousands of buffaloes feeding on the plains on both sides of the river.

October 1st.

We stopped to kill and dry some meat. We traveled on for fourteen days without being out of sight of buffalo. We had some cold, windy days and camped in the open prairie every night. We always traveled several miles after dark, and left the road and lay all night without fire, then rose before day, and pursued our journey. One evening, after sunset, as we were about starting, a grizzly bear came galloping up, and stood upon her hind feet. One of the men quickly shot her down. As we came along, the small prairie dogs would come out of their little holes, which they had dug in the ground, barking at us. This day we saw thousands of buffaloes and antelope quietly feeding along the plains. We also saw gangs of black, white and gray prairie wolves. After we crossed the Pawnee fork of little Arkansas, we saw no more buffaloes. We saw a company of the friendly Caw Indians, who told us that the Pawnees were all gone off. We traded some with them.

Here my mind was burdened on account of some of my company, who indulged in profane swearing and ill language. We got to the Council Grove, and remained there parts of two days and two nights, and traded some with the Indians. This grove is about one hundred miles from the state of Missouri, in a fine, rich country. The bottoms are well timbered, and are about a mile wide, timbered with walnut, hickory, ash, hackberry, sycamore, cherry and pawpaw, which is the first of this sort of timber that I have seen since I left the States. Here we got some honey from the Indians, which was the first I tasted since I left Missouri. Here will be a beautiful country, if it is purchased by the United States, which is probable, as the Indians are now talking of selling out.

Next morning we started and traveled six miles, when Sublette’s horse took sick, and the company agreed to stop for that night. Being anxious to get home, I left them and traveled on sometime after night, and lodged by myself, in a grove by a small creek. I was somewhat alarmed at seeing fire at a distance before me; and thinking it to belong to Indians, I hitched my horses and went to it, and found it was only some logs burning, I then returned to my horses, tied them up, and kindled a fire; cooked my supper, and ate it; then committed myself to the hands of the Lord, and lay down to repose, and slept comfortable till about 3 o’clock in the morning. I then arose and started on my journey, (it being moonlight), and traveled on till next night without halting, except to let my horses eat a little at the spots of grass. The plains being burnt over by the Indians, my horses were almost starved. I traveled that night about two hours after dark, then took up my lodging in a grove near a water course. The night being wet and rainy, I crept under a large log, and slept comfortably.

Next morning I arose about an hour before day, and started; traveled about eight miles, and came to where four men (hunters) were camped, two of whom were Colonel Boon’s grandsons. It seemed to do me good to see the faces of white men. They invited me to eat breakfast with them, which I did, and felt much refreshed. I then started on, and two of these men went with me, and showed me the way, I traveled on and reached Elm Grove, making about thirty miles that day. Here I made a small tent of willow bushes, which I covered with my blanket, expecting it would rain. I then ate my supper and turned out my horses and commended myself into the hands of the Lord, as usual. I awoke about 3 o’clock and started; missed my way, and became somewhat bewildered, but soon found the track again. I traveled on that day till dark, and then let my horses graze a little. I sat down and went to sleep. On awaking, I arose and took the back track, for my head seemed to be turned around, I traveled some distance that way, until the moon rose, I then saw that I was wrong, and changed my course. I had traveled nearly all this day without water, and kept on till almost midnight, and came to a small pond of water. I drank, and after eating some supper, laid down and slept about four hours, leaving my horses to graze on the burnt plains. In the morning I started again, and traveled until about 10 o’clock which was on the Sabbath day. I there found water, cooked my breakfast, and ate and drank joyfully. Spent a while in prayer, with thanksgiving to the Lord, who had preserved me from the heathen Indians, and was happy in my soul. I then traveled on and reached the Shawnee mission that evening. On this day I saw an Indian coming from the plains in a gallop, and thinking he might be an enemy, I soon loaded my gun, but he turned another way. When I reached the Shawnee mission, I can hardly describe my feelings of gratitude that I had once reached the land of civilization. This is just on the Missouri state line. The people came out to see the old man, who they all thought was dead and would return no more.

That evening I went to meeting, and heard brother Berryman preach, and an Indian preacher exhorted after him, who seemed to speak very lively. They both spoke in the Indian language. Next morning I disburdened myself of my cooking utensils, and other baggage, which were now useless to me, and purchased some few necessary articles out of the store. I then exchanged two of my horses for one, with brother Evans. When I saddled him, and mounted, he ran away with me and threw me off but God preserved my life, and I was not hurt. I then gave the horse up as he would not suit me. Next morning I traded three of my horses for one, having traveled three hundred miles over the burnt plains, where there was but very little grazing. I resumed my journey on the 25th of October, and rode to Independence; tried to preach to a few at night. Here I stayed with brother Pertee and brother Ford, who told me that they never expected to see me again. Here I met with Mr. Rickman, one of the company who had traveled to Bear River, and had parted with us there to go to California. He had just returned to the settlement. We were very glad to see each other, although we had parted with some degree of strife. Next night I reached brother M’Kinney’s, who was a Methodist preacher. Felt my self very comfortable. Next night came to brother Harriman’s, an old Methodist; and next night to Warrenburg, and stayed with brother Davis. Next night stayed at brother Walker’s and preached there. The next day, which was the Sabbath, stayed for class meeting among the blacks. There appears to be a great work of religion among the black people. I hear of great revivals all along here. I preached that night to them again. The black people seem to have the power of religion. I stayed that night with brother Forbus, an old acquaintance of mine. Next day reached brother North’s, They were very kind to me.

I traveled on several days, and reached St. Louis, meeting with many of my old acquaintances. Stayed all night at William Sublette’s. Met with Col. Benton, a member of Congress, and had some talk with him about the proposed occupation of the Oregon Territory. He said he intended to do all he could in congress for the encouragement of the settling of that country. Here I was very kindly treated. Next day crossed the Mississippi, and went to brother Ludwick’s, a Methodist preacher. They seemed glad to see me. Continued on to brother Wollard’s, where I had stayed before. Here I felt comfortable. There I heard of the death of my brother, Robert Williams, who lived in Tennessee. Still traveled on, crossed the Wabash, and went through Terrehaute. Stayed at brother Gray’s, an old acquaintance of mine. Meeting kind friends every night, I reached Woodbury, and stayed at brother Needham’s. He and his wife had joined the Methodists, and have professed to experience religion since I had been there before. I preached twice there, and felt comfortable.

Sunday following, I preached in a small town, and dined with Dr. Burnett, That night I preached at Bridgeport, and stayed at brother Kelley’s. The next day I passed through Indianapolis and stayed at brother Rector’s, a Methodist preacher. Here I felt refreshed. Next day I went through Shelbyville and stayed all night with brother Henry Fisher, who was an old itinerant. I was very joyful to see him, not having seen him for thirty years before. He is still on his way to heaven. For several days past I have had some rainy days. This morning I started and brother Fisher went a few miles with me. The company of our old Methodist preachers seems very refreshing to each other. After brother Fisher left me, the wind began to blow and the snow to fall, which made it very disagreeable. I reached home about 10 o’clock at night and found my children, that were at home, all well.

I now look back at my travels, and can see the promise of the Lord verified: “I will not leave thee, nor forsake”. I can see the toilsome and dangerous way I have traveled; the many lonesome and sleepless hours I have spent in the mountains and on the plains, where nought but the wolves and the owls broke the silence of the night, and nothing but the wide-spread canopy of heaven over me. For upwards of seven months in succession, I have not slept in a house; have lived among the heathen and wild beats (beasts) the last two summers; and have tried to bear testimony to the name of Jesus in the mountains and on the plains, on the hills and in the valleys , where ever sinners were to be found. I am now advanced in years, and the evening of life is at hand. My travels and troubles will soon be over; and ere long, I expect to take up my permanent abode in the high realms of glory;

“And range the blest fields on the banks of the river, And short hallelujah! for ever and ever.”

JOSEPH WILLLAMS

Closing:

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS

There mountains high in grandeur rise,

That almost pierce the arched skies;

The vales beneath are dark and low,

Where streamlets murmur soft and slow.

 

‘Tis there the panther’s loudest yell

Re-echoes to the distant hills–

There hungry bears, with angry growl,

And famish’d wolves, with dismal howl.

 

In fearful sounds they seem to tell,

That there’s no place for man to dwell:

But man will have a dwelling there,

In spite of panther, wolf and bear.

 

There rivers flow both deep and wide–

Along the vales in grandeur glide;

And often swell with angry waves,

To threaten men with watery graves.

 

But still the desert we pass through,

And bring the Savior’s death to view;

The word on craggy mountains preach,

With many prayers and tears we teach.

 

Some hut or camp to shield my head,

With no kind friend to give me bread;

Though wet and cold, I lay me down,

To slumber on the chilling ground.

 

Souls shall from these mountains rise,

To deck our crowns above the skies;

If they by us are brought to know

That God can pardon our sins below,

 

My soul has caught the heavenly flame,

While musing on this glorious plan,

Of calling sinners home to God,

To know and taste a Savior’s love.

 

 

 

COPIED FROM A HANDWRITTEN LETTER

Vermillion Edgar Co., Ills

Dec 23rd 1888

Dear Brother & Sister,

I am happy to inform you that myself and family are all in good health and hope when this reaches you it may find enjoying the same the friends are all well as far as I know

Dear brother I suppose that you are all seeing a nice time as it is near Christmas. We all went to Mr. Miller’s last Sunday to a turkey diner. the weather has been fine here for winter. all kinds of fruit has been very plenty and corn good we raised nearly two thousand Bushels of good corn but wheat was very poor. if you want to sell and come to Illinois now is your time– there is six Farms within one mile 1 1/4 from our Farm for sale one of them is well improved the others are good land can be bought for about $25 per acre I think you could do better here and the land is better. I received a letter from Cousin Wilber Williams not long ago he said he was going to be married soon I think you folks had better make a visit out here and look at these farms write and let me know how Lanah is getting along Father said he was anxious to hear from you My Boys and Nettle goes to school regular My babe is 20 months old her name is Clara Adelma. I am Boarding two tie makers Abram been hauling ties this is a great place for work when you write tell me where Emma Stewart is I am anxious to hear from you all tell your girls to write to me

I hope that you folks will answer this letter soon.

You cannot expect me to write often as I have a poor chance I suppose that you heard Uncle John Raffety was dead well I must close for this time hoping to hear from you soon

Yours very Respectfully,

Give my best respects

to all inquiring friends

From

Mary E Stipp

To

Wm & Rhoda Williams

 

 

WEST OBITUARY

From Glasgow, Montana Newspaper – 1913

The Rev. Joel Colson Walker was born in New Point, Decatur Co,, Indiana, Oct. 2, 1869. He died in Glasgow, Montana, Feb. 5, 1913. Brother Walker’s boyhood days were spent on his father’s farm in Decatur County Indiana. He received his early education as most farm boys do, in the country school.

In early manhood, he worked his way through high school academy and college and received the degree of AB from Moores Hill College in 1899. In the fall after graduation he went to Washington and united with the Columbia River Conference. For seven years he did good constructive work in Western Washington and Oregon. The Methodist Parsonage in Lagrande, Oregon and Methodist Church in Union Oregon, are some of the monuments of his devotion to his work. Desiring to further equip himself for his life’s work, he entered Garrett Biblical Institute in the fall of 1906. In May 1910 after four years of close application to study in Garrett, in connection with his pastoral work, he received the degree of Ph. B. In June of the same year, he was transferred to the North Montana Conference and stationed in Glasgow, Montana. During the two years and nine months of his pastorate in Glasgow, his work was characterized by the same zeal, industry and carefulness that have characterized his work everywhere.

Brother Walker was a local preacher seven years before he entered the itinerary ranks. During these twenty one years of active work in the Christian ministry, many souls have been born into the Kingdom of God through his instrumentality. The wholesome influence of this refined, scholarly Christian man of God, will long linger in the lives of the people whom he served so faithfully. The last monumental work of his life was the launching of the Glasgow Deaconess Hospital, a little more than a year ago. This last enterprise lay close to his heart.

Brother Walker was united in marriage to Mrs. Wellie Maris on Aug. 11, 1900 in Walla Walla, Washington. Mrs. Walker, with her daughter and son, now grown to maturity, an aged father and brother and sister in Indiana survives him. In February, a year ago, he underwent a surgical operation in Rochester. He was slowly regaining his health from the operation, but his heavy work and weakened physical condition made him an easy victim to tuberculosis. The funeral services were conducted by Rev. J.A. Hill of Chinask, a friend of the family and the writer. This District’s Superintendent in the Methodist Church. After the services the body was shipped to New Point, Indiana for internment in the old family cemetery*. O. A. White

*This cemetery was originally connected with the New Pennington Methodist Church that closed in the 1940’s.